Visualizzazione post con etichetta Howto. Mostra tutti i post
Visualizzazione post con etichetta Howto. Mostra tutti i post
I've been asked several times how to add a simple frame around a picture to let it have a postcard mood.
Actually its really simple and fast.

1) Open Photoshop and your "postcard" suited picture. I choosed that one taken by me in Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa, Italy:


2) Go to Image -> Canvas Size or just press Ctrl+Alt+C and a new window will appear:


3) Insert Height and Width values as you prefer (usually same values for both and in pixel, they depends on the resolution of the picture you're framing) and on the bottom right you can choose the color by clicking on the little square.
Actually this will add a line around all of your picture by the values you inserted and the color you choosed. My values are H:1 W:1 Color:White


4) Let's re-do the second and third step; Go to Image -> Canvas Size or just press Ctrl+Alt+C and the canvas window will appear.
This time my values are H:15 W:15 Color:Black
As you can see, that step will add you a bigger line than the one before (this time we used H:15 W:15) that will be our frame around the picture giving to it a postcard mood!


Hope you liked. As usual, please share.
[More]
Hi everybody!
This time i will explain how to build a free and easy Flash Diffuser.
As everyone knows, flashing directly to the subject will cause it to be "whitened" and so, we will have a great loss in details.
That's why we need to bounce the flash light on a reflective surface (white if possible) as discussed in my previous post "Making a cheap Bounce Card"

Actually you stop here and can go buy a Flash Diffuser from eBay or photography shops, or you can read furthemore!





Flash Diffuser for External Flash Unit
Ingredients:

- an opaque can of Liquid Soap/Detergent
- a can of Pringles

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

1) Cut the Pringles can, eating them meanwhile, in a 5cm to 10cm small piece and insert white paper inside the border of it (pringles inside can have gray reflective surface)

2) Cut the bottom of the liquid soap/detergent can so that some cm of the closed bottom will actually go out from the pringles can in the final flash diffuser.

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

3) Put it together with some black tape if the diameter doesen't fit perfectly (mine fitted perfectly)

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.usFree Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

4) That's all! Here you can see the result in taking picture flashing directily to the subject without and with the Flash Diffuser we just made. While without the Flash Diffuser you can see that the subject (pringles can) is overexposed by flash light, with the Flash Diffuser ON, there is no overxposed subject, and details are bettere than without it.

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.usFree Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Actually the pringles can should fit almost every external flash unit!

Flash Diffuser for Internal Flash Unit (DSLR)
Ingredients:
- an empty white opaque film can

Just cut a little stripe of the film can just to let your internal flash fit inside it.
Here how it should look like and how it will fit the internal flash unit of your dslr

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.usFree Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Those are the one i made:

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

As everytime, if you liked it, please share it!

[More]

Macro photography is close-up photography. The lens is typically optimized to focus sharply on a small area and magnifying it.


Depth of field is extremely small when focusing on close objects; a small aperture (high f-number) is often required to ensure sufficient depth of field. This requires either a slow shutter speed or bright lighting for correct exposure; in all but the brightest natural lighting if a prolonged exposure is not advisable, auxiliary lighting (such as from a flash unit) is required as a ring flash or a flash diffuser like the one discussed here on DIY photography.




How to:

  • Using a lens specifically designed for close work and with a long barrel for close focusing, called a macro lens.
  • Extending the distance between the lens and the film or sensor by inserting either extension tubes
  • Placing an auxiliary close-up lens in front of the camera's taking lens. Inexpensive screw-in or slip-on attachments provide close focusing at very low cost
  • Reversing the lens using a "reversing ring"

You can buy a reverse ring, or you can fit your second lens (if you have one) on the lens you have on your body camera as i did and have macro capabilities for FREE:



That’s my sony a300 with the standard lens dt18-70 and my old manual Zenit lens: Mc Helios 44m-7



I just reversed the Helios lens and attached to the DT lens



That’s all!

Don’t forget to switch to Manual focus!

This is an example of what i did with that DIY:

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us


Actually my Helios lens is all manual, so to use the aperture from that lens, i needed to have the aperture switch in the back of the lens always pressed but putting on it some glue or some rubber!

Other infos:

- Here is another cheap way to have an homemade macro lens at Photocritic

- And here another usueful way to build your own reversing ring from a Body Cap, its basically the same way i did macro reversing, but instead of using 2 lens, you will use a body cap, a filter and some glue!

- Another really cheap way of doing macro from Zuco

Thanks to wikipedia for macrophotography explanation.

[More]
"Tilt-shift photography" refers to the use of camera movements on small- and medium-format cameras, and sometimes specifically refers to the use of tilt for selective focus, often for simulating a miniature scene.

So, actually there are some cool website to do that like http://tiltshiftmaker.com/ or http://labs.artandmobile.com/tiltshift/ and you can have last one for your iPhone too!

But we want to make things difficult (not that much anyway ;p) and make it from scratch!

1) Open you Photoshop or Gimp application

2) Choose and open a photo you think it will fit for miniaturizing itself. I choosed my shot from Umeda Sky Building, Osaka (Japan). Actually really old shot and not in a high resolution.


3) Create a Layer Mask, or simply we can use quick mask just pressing Q, so we don't need to create any mask layer.

4) Now,we are going to select which part of the picture will be blurred. To have a smooth effect for the blur, we can choose the gradient tool (pressing G) and then click on the fourth icon along before the Mode drop-down (see picture for details)


5) With the gradient tool on, we draw a vertical line starting from the center of what we want to remain in focus and as long as how much in focus we want. And it will be painted in red (actually it just a mask, so we didn't paint anything!)


6) Let's exit from Quick Mask view by pressing Q again and we can see that the red painting has disappeared in favour of a selection.


7) We need to blur that selection. Let's choose Lens Filter from Filter->Blur->Lens Filter and you can freely play with the setting. I advice you to take Radius=from 20 and 60, Blade Curvature=0, Rotation=0, Brightness=from 10 to 35, Threshold=254, Amount=0.

I used 50, 0, 0, 35, 254, 0 and here is the result:


8) Deselect by pressing CTRL+D or simply clicking on the picture with Selection Tool ON.

9) Let's try to have a more Plastic look by saturate colors by going Image -> Adjustments -> Hue/Saturation and boost the Edit:Master Saturation=from +20 to +50, i did +50


10) Give a bit more contrast with an Unsharp Mask or by going on Image -> Adjustments -> Curves and have a half S curve like that:

Here is my result, its an old 2mpx picture, so the more details you have, the better the result will be.

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

If you enjoied it, please share it!^^


[More]